{"id":74335,"date":"2024-02-08T04:00:00","date_gmt":"2024-02-08T04:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/2024\/02\/08\/zac-posen-on-designing-the-full-menagerie-of-feuds-black-and-white-ball\/"},"modified":"2024-02-08T04:00:00","modified_gmt":"2024-02-08T04:00:00","slug":"zac-posen-on-designing-the-full-menagerie-of-feuds-black-and-white-ball","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/2024\/02\/08\/zac-posen-on-designing-the-full-menagerie-of-feuds-black-and-white-ball\/","title":{"rendered":"Zac Posen on Designing the Full Menagerie of Feud\u2019s Black and White Ball"},"content":{"rendered":"<p> <br \/>\n<\/p>\n<div>\n<p class=\"has-dropcap\">On a crisp November night in 1966, the would-be prince of New York City threw a ball that even Cinderella would have had trouble getting into. The prince was Truman Capote, and the party was his Black and White Ball, honoring the <em>Washington Post<\/em>\u2019s publisher, Katharine Graham. Around 540 handpicked guests turned up to the Plaza Hotel for what Capote would describe as \u201ca little masked ball\u201d featuring New York\u2019s finest, from Lauren Bacall to Norman Mailer to, of course, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.vanityfair.com\/hollywood\/who-were-the-swans-a-deep-dive-into-truman-capotes-best-frenemies#:~:text=The%20book%20was%20inspired%20by,descent%20into%20alcoholism%20and%20despair.\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">his beloved swans<\/a>. Capote\u2019s Black and White Ball wasn\u2019t just the event of the season\u2014it was <em>the<\/em> society event of the \u201960s.<\/p>\n<p>Naturally, FX\u2019s <em>Feud: Capote vs. the Swans<\/em> devotes an entire episode to the event\u2014from its meticulous planning to the night of the picture-perfect party. To bring the Black and White Ball to life, executive producer <strong>Ryan Murphy<\/strong> and director <strong>Gus Van Sant<\/strong> enlisted famed fashion designer <strong>Zac Posen.<\/strong> \u201cGus is a good friend, and Ryan is a friend and somebody I\u2019ve known for a long time. We\u2019ve wanted to work together for a long time,\u201d Posen says. When the team asked the designer if he might want to fabricate the episode\u2019s elaborate gowns, they were in luck: \u201cI don\u2019t have my own line anymore,\u201d he says. \u201cSo I only do one-of-a-kind pieces.\u201d (Days after our interview, Posen would be named the executive vice president, creative director of Gap, and the chief creative officer of Old Navy.)<\/p>\n<p class=\"paywall\">Running a major fashion label is not the same thing as costuming a major television show. \u201cCostume design is a different consideration\u2014more character building,\u201d he says. \u201cIt\u2019s also elevated. Not only is it costume design of a time period, it\u2019s costume design within the wonderful world of Ryan Murphy, aesthetically set between Ryan and his collaborator [<em>Feud<\/em> costume designer] <strong>Lou [Eyrich],<\/strong> of a world that they\u2019ve created through the lens of Gus Van Sant. So you kind of find your place within that.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"paywall\">But Posen didn\u2019t feel obligated to hew entirely to the historical record. In fact, Murphy specifically told him not to. Still, he did his homework. \u201cI was finding historical matches of fabrics, of color sources, deadstock flowers from one of the oldest silk flower places in New York of that time period,\u201d Posen says. He worked closely with <strong>Deborah Davis,<\/strong> author of <em>Party of the Century: The Fabulous Story of Truman Capote and His Black and White Ball.<\/em> Then Posen combined his research with his own creative vision. The result? A true feast for the eyes.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paywall\">Every dress, Posen says, \u201cis a character\u2014a different, beautiful, aquatic bird on a pond.\u201d Posen was inspired by the period\u2019s magical surrealist filmmakers like Federico Fellini, as well as <a href=\"https:\/\/www.vanityfair.com\/hollywood\/2023\/01\/franco-zeffirellis-son-responds-to-romeo-and-juliet-stars-embarrassing-child-abuse-lawsuit\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Franco Zeffirelli<\/a>, British photographer Cecil Beaton, director Vincente Minnelli, and even Muppets creators Jim Henson and <strong>Frank Oz.<\/strong> \u201cI was like, Let\u2019s look at the people that I think are great imagineers in filmmaking, that are a really big part of my DNA,\u201d says Posen. \u201cHow do we create that kind of magic [when] it\u2019s going to be in a piece that takes place around historical characters, but is not a retelling of history?\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"paywall\">All the research in the world wouldn\u2019t have made a perfect recreation of the ball possible. \u201cSlim [Keith]\u2014you can\u2019t find documentation of what she wore,\u201d says Posen. There were \u201cno drawings or written descriptions that I could find, or any of the historians could find.\u201d In other cases, there was too much history to pore through. \u201cLee Radziwill had the time of her life that night,\u201d he says. \u201cThere\u2019s a million Slim Aarons photos to Ron Galella photos and drawings [of her]. It\u2019s all there, documented.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"paywall\">There were practical matters to contend with as well. Directed by Van Sant, the episode \u201cMasquerade 1966\u201d was conceived as a movie within a show, shot mostly in black and white from the perspective of the Maysles brothers\u2014the documentarians behind <em>Grey Gardens,<\/em> who were working on a documentary about Capote around this time. According to Posen, it was decided only partway through the process to shoot the episode almost entirely in black and white. Naturally, this had an effect on how Posen chose to costume certain swans.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paywall\">Take Radziwill (<strong>Calista Flockhart<\/strong>), for instance. In real life, the socialite wore an embroidered Mila Sch\u00f6n dress to the ball, but Posen didn\u2019t have time to embroider a dress. \u201cI got the briefing right before Thanksgiving, and we shot in the beginning of the second week of January,\u201d he says. \u201cIt was quick.\u201d Flockhart was initially in a white jacquard cloque coat, which Posen says looked great on her, but it was \u201cjust going to disappear\u201d on camera. So he pivoted: \u201cLet\u2019s use a metallic jacquard, let\u2019s do an overlay of something graphic with these embroidered daisies, then trim it with something that looked kind of [like] futurism.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p><br \/>\n<br \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.vanityfair.com\/hollywood\/zac-posen-on-designing-the-full-menagerie-of-feuds-black-and-white-ball\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Source link <\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>On a crisp November night in 1966, the would-be prince of New York City threw a ball that even Cinderella would have had trouble getting into. The prince was Truman Capote, and the party was his Black and White Ball, honoring the Washington Post\u2019s publisher, Katharine Graham. Around 540 handpicked guests turned up to the [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":74336,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[43,6117,6412],"class_list":{"0":"post-74335","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-celebrity","8":"tag-fashion","9":"tag-feud-capote-vs-the-swans","10":"tag-zac-posen"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/74335","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=74335"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/74335\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/74336"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=74335"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=74335"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=74335"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}