{"id":69779,"date":"2024-01-19T23:21:40","date_gmt":"2024-01-19T23:21:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/2024\/01\/19\/selkie-founder-defends-use-of-ai-in-new-dress-collection-amid-backlash-techcrunch\/"},"modified":"2024-01-19T23:21:40","modified_gmt":"2024-01-19T23:21:40","slug":"selkie-founder-defends-use-of-ai-in-new-dress-collection-amid-backlash-techcrunch","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/2024\/01\/19\/selkie-founder-defends-use-of-ai-in-new-dress-collection-amid-backlash-techcrunch\/","title":{"rendered":"Selkie founder defends use of AI in new dress collection amid backlash | TechCrunch"},"content":{"rendered":"<p> <br \/>\n<\/p>\n<div>\n<p id=\"speakable-summary\"><span class=\"featured__span-first-words\">When Selkie, the<\/span> fashion brand viral on Instagram and TikTok for its frothy, extravagant dresses, announces new collections, reception is generally positive. Known for its size inclusivity \u2014 its sizing ranges from XXS to 6X \u2014 and for being owned and founded by an independent artist who\u2019s outspoken about fair pay and sustainability in fashion, Selkie tends to be highly regarded as one of the morally \u201cgood\u201d brands online.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The brand\u2019s <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/selkiecollection.com\/collections\/home-is-where-the-heart-is\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">upcoming Valentine\u2019s Day drop<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> was inspired by vintage greeting cards, and features saccharine images of puppies surrounded by roses, or comically fluffy kittens painted against pastel backdrops. Printed on sweaters and dresses adorned with bows, the collection was meant to be a nostalgic, cheeky nod to romance. It was also designed using the AI image generator <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/techcrunch.com\/tag\/midjourney\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Midjourney<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cI have a huge library of very old art, from like the 1800s and 1900s, and it\u2019s a great tool to make the art look better,\u201d Selkie founder Kimberley Gordon told TechCrunch. \u201cI can sort of paint using it, on top of the generated art. I think the art is funny, and I think it\u2019s cheeky, and there\u2019s little details like an extra toe. Five years from now, this sweater is going to be such a cool thing because it will represent the beginning of a whole new world. An extra toe is like a representation of where we are beginning.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But when the brand announced that the collection was designed using generative AI, backlash was immediate. Selkie addressed the use of AI in art in an Instagram comment under the drop announcement, noting that Gordon felt that it was \u201cimportant to learn this new medium and how it may or may not work for Selkie as a brand.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Criticism flooded the brand\u2019s Instagram comments. One described the choice to use AI as a \u201cslap in the face\u201d to artists, and expressed disappointment that a brand selling at such a high price point ($249 for the viral polyester puff minidress to $1,500 for made-to-order silk bridal gowns) wouldn\u2019t just commission a human artist to design graphics for the collection. Another user simply commented, \u201cthe argument of \u2018i\u2019m an artist and i love ai!\u2019 is very icky.\u201d One user questioned why the brand opted to use generative AI, given the \u201coverwhelming number\u201d of stock images and vintage artwork that is not copyrighted, and \u201cidentical in style.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cWhy make the overwhelmingly controversial and ethically dubious choice when options that are just as cost effective and more ethical are widely available?\u201d the user continued. \u201cIf you have indeed done the research you claim to have on AI, then you also understand that it\u2019s a technology that requires the theft and exploitation of workers to function.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Gordon said she spends about a week designing collections, but it takes months to a year of development and manufacturing before they\u2019re actually sold online. In the year since she finalized designs for this drop, public opinion of AI art has shifted significantly.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">As generative AI tools become more sophisticated, the use of AI in art has also become increasingly polarizing. Some artists like Gordon, who designs Selkie\u2019s patterns herself using a blend of royalty-free clip art, public domain paintings, digital illustration and Photoshop collaging, see AI image generators as a tool. Gordon likens it to photography: it\u2019s new now, but future generations may accept it as another art medium. Many artists, however, are <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.nbcnews.com\/tech\/internet\/lensa-ai-artist-controversy-ethics-privacy-rcna60242\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">vocally opposed<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> to the use of generative AI in art.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<div class=\"embed breakout embed-oembed embed--twitter\">\n<blockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-width=\"550\" data-dnt=\"true\">\n<p lang=\"en\" dir=\"ltr\">Selkie as a brand has claimed they care about cutting their environmental footprint and supporting the artisans that make their clothing; using AI goes against both of these promises when they could SUPPORT ACTUAL ARTISTS!! <a href=\"https:\/\/t.co\/pY10fPN5ta\" target=\"_blank\">https:\/\/t.co\/pY10fPN5ta<\/a><\/p>\n<p>\u2014 amber \ud83c\udf49 (@mbrleigh) <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/mbrleigh\/status\/1747761211268284590?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">January 17, 2024<\/a><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Their concerns are twofold \u2014 one, artists lose opportunities to cheaper, faster AI image generators, and two, that many generators have been trained on copyrighted images scraped from the internet without artists\u2019 consent. Pushback against generative AI <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/techcrunch.com\/2023\/10\/06\/creatives-across-industries-are-strategizing-together-around-ai-concerns\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">spans across all creative industries<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, not just in visual art. Musicians are speaking out against the use of <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/techcrunch.com\/2023\/04\/26\/grimes-ai-generated-drake-music-legal-issues\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">deepfake covers<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, actors are questioning if <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.backstage.com\/magazine\/article\/sag-aftra-ai-deal-explained-76821\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">SAG-AFTRA\u2019s new contract<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> adequately regulates AI in entertainment, and even <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/techcrunch.com\/2023\/10\/11\/ao3-ai-fears-lock-account-kinktober-fanfiction\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">fanfiction writers<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> are taking measures to prevent their work from being used to train AI models.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Of course, not all generative AI is exploitative; <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/techcrunch.com\/2023\/08\/25\/vfx-artists-show-that-hollywood-can-use-ai-to-create-not-exploit\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">as a VFX tool<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, it\u2019s immensely useful to enhance animations, from creating more realistic flames in Pixar\u2019s \u201cElemental\u201d to visualizing complex scenes in HBO\u2019s \u201cThe Last Of Us.\u201d There are plenty of examples of morally bankrupt applications of generative AI. Creating <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/techcrunch.com\/2022\/11\/25\/deepfake-porn-revenge-porn-uk-law-change\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">deepfake revenge porn<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, for example, or <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.intheknow.com\/post\/levis-ai-models\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">generating \u201cdiverse models\u201d instead of hiring actual people of color<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> is objectively horrifying. But most of the generative AI debate settles into a morally gray area, where the parameters of exploitation are less defined.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In Selkie\u2019s case, Gordon solely designs all of the graphics that are featured on Selkie garments. If someone else designs them, she makes it clear that it\u2019s a collaboration with another artist. Her designs typically involve a collage of digital watercolor painting, stock images and \u201cold art\u201d that is no longer copyrighted. Many of her popular designs incorporate motifs from famous works of art, like Van Gogh\u2019s \u201cStarry Night\u201d and Monet\u2019s \u201cWater Lilies,\u201d which she uses as a base to create a unique, but still recognizable pattern. After she alters and builds upon the already existing work, it\u2019s printed onto gauzy fabric and used to construct billowing dresses and frilly accoutrements.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The Valentine\u2019s Day drop, Gordon argued, is no different, except that she used generated images as the design base, instead of public domain artwork. The patterns that she created for this collection are just as transformative as the ones she designed for previous drops, she said, and involved as much altering, original illustration and \u201ccreative eye.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cI say this is art. This is the future of art and as long as an artist is utilizing it, it is the same as what we\u2019ve been doing with clip art,\u201d Gordon said. \u201cI think it\u2019s very similar, except it gives the artists a lot more power and allows us to compete in a world where big business has owned all of this structure.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Gordon bristled at accusations equating her use of generative AI to that of companies that have replaced employed artists with AI image generators. She pointed out that she couldn\u2019t have \u201creplaced artists,\u201d since she is the brand\u2019s only in-house artist, and that the steep prices that Selkie charges for each ruffled dress account for material and labor cost. If clothing is cheap, she said, it\u2019s usually because the garment workers making them are not being paid fairly. Gordon added that although she\u2019s paid as the \u201cbusiness owner,\u201d she doesn\u2019t factor her own labor as a designer into her salary in order to cut overhead costs.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Gordon also noted that she didn\u2019t use any other artists\u2019 names or work as prompts when she used Midjourney to generate the base images. She turned to AI for efficiency \u2014 she said that it was a \u201cgreat brainstorming tool\u201d to visualize what she wanted the collection to look like \u2014 and out of fear of being left behind. Artists face mounting pressure to adapt to new technology, she said, and she wanted to be ahead of the curve.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cI\u2019m not using AI models. I\u2019m only using the AI as a tool where I would usually be doing it. I\u2019m not trying to take away anyone\u2019s job at my own company,\u201d she said. \u201cI\u2019m using it as a way for myself to be efficient instead. If I had been utilizing lots of artists to make my prints, and then I suddenly used AI, I would definitely be taking away from them. How can I take away from myself?\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">This is the nuance that isn\u2019t always reflected in conversations about art and AI. Gordon owns a popular, but relatively small fashion brand that she uses as a vehicle to monetize her own artwork. Could she have commissioned another artist for oil paintings of lovesick puppies and kittens? Yes. Is it likely that the generated images of generic, vintage Valentine\u2019s Day cards lifted the work of any living artist? Unclear, but so far, nobody has publicly accused Selkie of <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.businessinsider.com\/ai-image-generators-artists-copying-style-thousands-images-2022-10\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">copying their art<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> for the new collection. Gordon\u2019s use of AI generated images is nowhere near as egregious as those of other, bigger fashion brands, but more sanctimonious critics argue that any use of AI art perpetuates harm against artists.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Gordon, for one, said she\u2019s listened to the criticism and doesn\u2019t plan to use AI generated images in future Selkie collections. She believes that regulation is lacking when it comes to generative AI, and suggested that artists receive some kind of payment every time their names or work is used in prompts. But she does plan to continue experimenting with it in her personal art, and maintained her stance that at the end of the day, it\u2019s just another medium to work with.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cMaybe the way that I did it and this route is not the right way, but I don\u2019t agree that [AI] is a bad thing,\u201d Gordon said. \u201cI feel that it is tech progress. And it\u2019s neither good nor bad. It\u2019s just the way of life.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<p><script async src=\"\/\/platform.twitter.com\/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\"><\/script><br \/>\n<br \/><br \/>\n<br \/><a href=\"https:\/\/techcrunch.com\/2024\/01\/19\/selkie-founder-defends-ai-collection-kimberley-gordon-valentines-day\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Source link <\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>When Selkie, the fashion brand viral on Instagram and TikTok for its frothy, extravagant dresses, announces new collections, reception is generally positive. Known for its size inclusivity \u2014 its sizing ranges from XXS to 6X \u2014 and for being owned and founded by an independent artist who\u2019s outspoken about fair pay and sustainability in fashion, [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":69780,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[14],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-69779","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-tech"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/69779","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=69779"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/69779\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/69780"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=69779"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=69779"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/entertainment.runfyers.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=69779"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}