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Welcome to Off the Eaten Path<\/a>, a series where our Test Kitchen creator Noah Tanen dives deep into regional recipes. Next up? Midwest thin-crust pizza.<\/em><\/p>\n If you\u2019re a Chicago deep-dish enthusiast, move along, this article is not for you. Ok, now that that\u2019s sorted: Welcome to the inner circle of those of us who know that the true regional pizza icon of the Midwest is tavern-style. It\u2019s cracker-thin, crisp, square-cut, and best enjoyed with a cold Old Style beer. Across the region, each city lays claim to a spin on the formula, and variations on the theme range from subtle to chaotic. The big question is: Which is best, and are they even distinct enough from each other to warrant ranking? Let\u2019s find out.<\/p>\n I\u2019m not trying to tell you that the pizza in Milwaukee isn\u2019t great. It is, but it\u2019s a hard case to make that it\u2019s at all distinct from Chicago-style thin crust. But I\u2019m willing to make that argument, and that\u2019s not just because I need a 5 spot on this list. The main differences are that Milkaukee-style pizza makers tend to make their pies oblong rather than round (Calderone Club<\/a> being one example) and they often lean into brick cheese, a Wisconsin product famous for topping Detroit-style pizza. It does<\/em> add a buttery richness and creamy texture to the pizza, but Milwaukee is missing the distinctive style points it needs to climb higher on this list. Tasty? Absolutely. But if we’re talking identity, it\u2019s a little too similar to Chicago’s more dominant thin-crust scene.<\/p>\n The pie in Dayton, Ohio, has everything you\u2019d want in a Midwest thin-crust, but brings an interesting element to the table: unsweetened tomato sauce.Dayton keeps things acidic and tomato-forward. The crust is ultra-thin, of course, and the regional loyalty is strong, but most of main players in the Dayton pizza game are chains: Cassano’s Pizza King<\/a> and Marion’s Piazza<\/a>, meaning Dayton lacks the kind of mom-and-pop-shop pizza culture you find in some other cities on this list. With its no-frills sauce and standard line-up of toppings, consider Dayton-style the minimalists\u2019 choice in a region full of maximalism.<\/p>\n This is where things get controversial. St. Louis-style pizza is a love-it-or-hate-it situation, all thanks to one ingredient: Provel Cheese. The processed amalgamation of cheddar, Swiss, provolone, and a dash of liquid smoke gives St. Louis pizza a signature gooey, and even slightly sticky texture. [Editor\u2019s note: You\u2019re being kind; it\u2019s like rubber.] I love it, and while the scene is dominated by local chain Imo\u2019s<\/a>, there are plenty of local gems, like Nick and Elena’s<\/a>. The crust? Shatteringly crisp. The sauce? Sweet, zippy. The overall experience? Unique. So why isn\u2019t it higher? Because for every Provel devotee, there\u2019s someone else who claims it tastes of singed, melted plastic. [Editor\u2019s note: It me.] This pizza is a bold statement, and its divisiveness keeps it from the top spot.<\/p>\n
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