The show itself was described as “a stylistic cross-section of New York City,” with models meant to evoke the kinds of people one would find on the street. Except that in this New York, it appeared, everyone is über-thin. To Demna’s credit, there was less cosplay here than there was in that Balenciaga show in Los Angeles.
Instead, what emerged was the beginning of a fully-formed vision for Demna’s take on Gucci, outlined even more thoroughly at the after party, hosted at a Madison Avenue venue fashioned as the Gucci Mansion. There was the Gucci Gym in question, plus a Gucci hotel room with Gucci karaoke, a double-G pool table, and more delightfully hilarious Gucci-fied extravagancies. Lady Bunny sang her rendition of “New York, New York,” and guests devoured miniature burgers that were offered in tiny Gucci boxes. Demna understands better than most that luxury today is about participation and access rather than craftsmanship and a certain look.
Glamorous on the verge of vulgar, elegant yet unrestrained, and unmistakably luxurious. Last night’s show was a more complete, and compelling, version of what the designer first showed in Milan at his first runway show in February. Demna, one of luxury fashion’s ultimate brand builders, has now clearly defined what his Gucci is all about.
This is a designer who first changed style with Vetements, the guerrilla-style label he founded with his brother, Guram Gvasalia. He then revolutionized fashion, and the way culture sees fashion, with his almost Dadaist take on luxury at Balenciaga. The only question that remains is: Can lightning strike thrice?
